On the road to the
best museum you’ve probably never heard of
My boss had been recently extolling the virtues of an
unexpectedly good art museum in the rather unlikely locale of Winona, Minnesota
so I decided this week’s Bifocal Friday would be a road trip downriver to check
it out. Even without the tantalizing promise of a destination like that, a
drive along the Mississippi is one of my very favorite ways to spend a day – or
thirty.
Some of my readers may recall another writing adventure project
of mine, when I took a month’s sabbatical from work and family in 2006 and
drove down one side of the Mississippi all the way to New Orleans and back up
the other side, exploring the towns and sights along the way and blogging about
“one golden thing” every day. If you care to embark on another arm-chair adventure with me, here’s the archive of that: Mississippi Gold
In any case, I never tire of the river’s story and I never
cease to marvel at the day’s wonder that can be experienced with just a few
hours of driving south from Minneapolis-St. Paul.
I generally prefer to make my way over to the Wisconsin side
for the downriver journey, crossing over at Prescott where the St. Croix River
merges with the Mississippi. The road hugs the river through Prescott and then
curves around farmland and small industrial railroad and sand mining towns like
Diamond Bluff, Hager City, and Bay City before you hit scenic pay dirt beginning
around Maiden Rock.

Down through the quaint and artsy town of Stockholm, then just
a few more miles to Pepin, home of Laura Ingalls Wilder’s “Little House in the
Big Woods.” Through Nelson, with its cheese factory that’s been making cheese
for over 100 years, and to Alma, where I stopped to visit a few shops and
galleries. The town offers an incredible view from the Buena Vista park that
sits high atop the bluff and looks down on the Army Corps of Engineers Lock and
Dam #4, and at what seems like a little O-scale model railroad and shipping
town below.
After Nelson comes Cochrane, which you would hardly notice
except that it has a consolidated area high school. And then Czechville, which
I actually never HAVE noticed except right now when I’m looking at a map to
refresh myself on the place names. Then just before Bluff Siding I cross back
over to Minnesota and come into the city of Winona, home to one of Minnesota’s
state colleges and apparently home to this amazing museum I’m about to see.
Did I say amazing? I
meant freakin’ AMAZING!
The Minnesota Marine Art Museum sits alongside the
river just north of the old industrial section of downtown Winona, on eight
acres of gardens and grounds.
Built in 2006, it is a beautiful state-of-the-art
facility designed to house the incredible marine art collection of Bob Kierlin
(founder of industrial supply company Fastenal) and his wife Mary Burrichter,
along with many other pieces that are on loan to the museum.
The common thread to the substantial collection (primarily
paintings), is that the piece must include a body of water big enough to boat
on. The water doesn’t have to be the central focus of the piece, but it has to
be present in some significant way. There are the sailing ship scenes you would
expect – but then there are seaside and waterlily and river drifting and
factory working and pretty girls wading by the likes of Monet, Frederick Childe
Hassam, John Singer Sargent, Paul Signac, van Gogh, Camille Pissaro and Renoir,
just to name a few of the Impressionist superstars that snuck up and hit me on
the head right here in River City.
Then there’s Picasso, and oh here comes the Hudson
River School crew and American masters like Winslow Homer, George Bellows,
William Glackens, and modern wonders like Georgia O’Keefe. All that AND a special exhibition of tattoo art in the sailor tradition!
It truly was a mind-boggling and wonderful encounter for
such a small town as Winona, population 27,500. And another reminder that
putting on the spirit-bifocals and focusing on something new can have big-time
results.
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